Hot Concept: fish!

As an island nation, Britain has long sea fishing traditions. Fish and chips, the indigenous fast-food, has been exported and continues to be hugely popular, as both a takeout meal from the nation's 8,000-plus fish-and-chip shops and on pub menus. More refined menus are to be found at many traditional restaurants but until the fish! chain developed over the past two years, there were very few mid-market exponents. Bruce Whitehall reports.